Category Archives: Spider Mite Treatments
Many growers use a total release fogger (aka ‘bomb’) to treat a spider mite infestation in an indoor garden. These products release an insecticide ‘fog’ using an aerosol propellant. If you are going to bomb your indoor garden, you may want to consider moving your houseplants into the room and bombing them too.
The active ingredient of a total release fogger is Pyrethrum. Pyrethrum will kill adult mites but it will not kill the eggs. The gestation period of spider mites is temperature and humidity dependant, but most growers deploy a strategy of setting off multiple bombs three to five days apart. This will usually kill the adults and then the juvenile mites before they have had a chance to reproduce.
Another important thing to consider is all Pyrethrums are not equal. Natural Pyrethrum bombs are made from Chrysanthemum plants; they are suitable for food crops. Synthetic Pyrethrums are not suitable for food crop production. Read the fine print on the label and FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. UV (Ultraviolet) light reduces the insecticidal qualities of pyrethrum (most manufactures say in 14 days). However, if you are using High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps these put out virtually no UV light anyway.
Remember, the bomb’s propellant will harm your plants if you do not position it correctly. Do not push the plunger of a bomb and set it in front of an oscillating fan, which is going to blow the propellant all over your plants. Before you set the bomb off, shut off your grow-lights and fans, place a small piece of cardboard under the bomb, hold your breath, hit the button, run out of the room and go for some drinks. It is safe to come back in a couple hours to turn the fans on.
I tend to set off bombs as a preventative measure, when I flip (clean) the room in between crop cycles or … just if I feel like mites may be a threat.
CAUTION: Systemic Pesticides and Consumable Crops
If you are growing crops that you intend to consume, make sure that your pesticide is designed to be used for human consumption. Some systemic and residual pesticides (such as Floramite™ and Avid™) are not designed for food crops. Yes, they will kill mites and spider mites’ eggs, but the insecticide remains inside the crop; Avid™ is systemic which means it stays in the system of the plant and does not go away after time.
All in all at the end of the day it’s to each their own but would you want to injest all those harmfull chemicals and put your freinds or patients at risk as well? Just something to think about…
1.) Identify Spider Mite Infestation
2.) Shake Bottle and Apply No Spider Mites Generously to Top and Bottom of Plant
3.) Watch as Spider Mites are Eradicated
Spider mites are very tiny mites that live on the underside of cannabis- marijuana leaves and eat them, causing damage and necrosis to your valuable crops. First off, some gardeners mistake the damage to the leaves as a sort of fungus or mildew as it can look a bit like leaf spot or powdery mildew.
If you have a spider mite infestation you will notice that the top side of the leaf appears browinsh to silverish in color with slight mottling or “little dots”.
First…. The easiest way to check if this is truly a spider mite infestation opposed to fungus is to take a piece of white paper and place it under the leaf, shake the leaf a bit, and then check the piece of paper.
Then…. Spider mites are compelled to be on the underside of a leaf so they will immediately set off running toward the edge of the paper to get underneath it.
Also…. Check is whether or not you notice tiny spider webs on the plant. Keep in mind that they are very small, not quite microscopic but you may need a magnifying lens to verify this.
The two most common spider mites that do damage are the red mite and two spotted mite.
The red will appear reddish in color (Above Left) and the spotted have two distinct dots on their backs(Above Right)). Spider mites do tend to stay in place, they do not move or migrate much from where they are born unless they are “vectored”.
Vectoring means that the mites have come in contact with something that moves (you, your clothes, your pets, birds, etc. that they can hitch a ride on to get to another area) to infect another plant or area.
This means that if you have handled a plant or tree that has been infected it is best to wash your hands, change clothes, etc. before handling an uninfected plant.
Most infestations begin in late spring and continue on until the end of summer as they prefer warm to hot conditions. This is changing with the rapid proliferation of indoor grow rooms.
In winter thay will usually “overwinter” in grassy areas where they can stay warm. They also like indoor plants and plants in greenhouses during winter because those conditions are usually warmer. That seems to be the case with the few plants in and around the indoor grows that have been infected . If the infestation is slight, a good blast of water on the underside of the leaves may work. Heavier infestations can be emilinated with No Spider Mites™ .
Application of a Safer Soap must be done to the underside of the leaves as it kills on contact. Treatment also must be applied more than once, preferably 3 treatments 5 days apart as the soap kills the mites but not their eggs (their life cycle is only about 10 days). If this does not work and you absolutely have exhausted all other methods, applications of pesticides such as Orthene or Avid can be used. Keep in mind that pesticides are only a short-term solution because if you continually use them the spider mites will become tolerant, and further applications will no longer kill the spider mites. Another solution is to use predatory mites, which can be purchased at a garden supply shop or farm supply shop. The predatory mites will eat the spider mites without infesting your plants and is a much better alternative to pesticide use.
Also, if you are going to use predatory mites it is best to use them at the first onset of spider mites before they have done much damage. A final method to limit the spread of the spider mites is to “quarantine” infected plants while you are treating them, which is what I’ve done. After I’m sure the infestation is gone I will move the previously infected plants back into the greenhouse.
Spider mites are the bane of marijuana growers. Mites are not insects, but arachnids, the same family as spiders. They have eight legs. Your garden is probably infested with two spotted mites. When looking through a loop or magnifying glass, two black spots are visible on the pest’s back. Gardens are also infrequently infested with the red spider mite.Spider mites are about the size of a poppy seed. They insert a tube into the plant and suck out its juices. Indoors, where they are not combating nature’s challenges, mites multiply quickly and overwhelm gardens. Mites lay eggs after they mature, about two weeks after hatching. The females lay thousands of eggs over their lifetime. They hatch in about three days.
Mites inhabit the underside of the leaf and are not readily apparent. The first indication of their presence is usually the sight of tiny brown spots circled by small yellow areas. These areas indicate sites where mites have used their proboscises to puncture the leaf surface and suck the plant’s sweet juices. As the population increases they begin to build webs and can be seen commuting from one feeding area to the next.
If only one plant or one section of a plant seems to be infected or if a plant is much more infected than the others in the garden, wrap it in a plastic bag to prevent infecting the other plants as you remove it from the garden.
A small mite infection left unchecked is a temporary condition. So it is unwise to go into flowering with infected plants. The problem is that after the plants are one third of the way through flowering, two to three weeks, you want to avoid spraying with water or soapy water to wash off the suckers.
Mites must be eliminated before forcing or when they attack plants in the early stages of flowering. If not they will multiply with disastrous results. The skimpy buds will be low quality and covered with dead mites. It’s not an enjoyable smoke.
Spraying can be used to control mites through the vegetative stage and for the first two or three weeks of flowering. However, other means must be used to get the plants to the zero tolerance level. By far the easiest method is to use an acceptable miticide.
There are several commercial miticides that can be used early in the season to kill mites.
Pyrethrum has been used to kill mites. It is a natural pesticide produced by a close relative of the chrysanthemum. The problem with using it is that many races of mites have developed immunity to it.
Cinnamite when used properly comes as a concentrate that is diluted and sprayed on the plants. It contains a miticide derived from cinnamon oil. It is safe and is rated least hazardous. It is quite effective but it doesn’t kill the eggs (thats a huge problem). It should be used every three days for two weeks to make sure all the mites are killed soon after they hatch. It is a contact spray so plants should be dipped or sprayed on the leaf undersides. It is also effective against powdery mildew.
Neem oil is a natural miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree, which is found in India. It is a mite repellent as well, so some gardeners use it as a prophylactic, spraying it on a weekly basis. I mix neem oil with Cinnamite to eliminate small infections.
For growers who distrust anything commercial, try an ?herbal tea? that acts as a miticide. To each quart of water use a tablespoon each of ground cinnamon, ground clove and 2 tablespoons of ground Italian seasoning. Heat the mixture until it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat. Add 2 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic when the water cools to warm. Let the tea sit until it cools. Strain and save the water using a cloth or coffee filter. Add a few drops of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to the water. It is ready to be sprayed on the leaf undersides. After spraying the mites off with water, spray it on the leaf undersides. It will eliminate the mites if it is sprayed every three days after the wash. Within two weeks the mites will probably be gone.
Avid is a miticide registered for ornamental plants. Its active ingredient is abamectin, a derivative of a toxin originally found in soil bacteria. Avid is not registered for use on vegetables except in certain restricted situations. In today’s day and age we need to be mindful of our patients and what they ingest. Other brands of abamectin such as AgriMek by Syngenta are registered for a wide range of crops. The AgriMek label calls for a minimum of a seven day wait between application and harvest. I wouldn’t use marijuana if I knew it was treated with this pesticide during the last few weeks of flowering. This can also be harmful if not used properly and can damage your valuable crops significantly.
An all new safe and completely effective spider mite eliminator os No Spider Mites™ which has been picking up some incredible word of mouth advertising amongst dispensary owners and commercial growers in medical marijuana friendly states. It’s an all organic, 100% spider mite eliminator. There are growers out there that swear by it big-time. It can be used from clone through harvest and the very first 51 strain strain, blind random test result study was done in 6 compliant cultivation operations in Colorado with absolutely amazing results. This product kills mites on contact, but most importantly KILLS THE EGGS TOO! This is by far the best spider mite product I have ever used period. It’s one thing to kill mites in another thing to kill the eggs too!
Some gardeners have reported success controlling mites using predatory mites or other predators. These carnivorous mites reach an equilibrium with the herbivorous mites, keeping damage to a bare minimum. I have tried introducing mixed species of predatory mites a few times but have never been satisfied with the results. They did not get the problem under control. However, they can work and some gardeners swear by them.
Ultimately, the solution to the mite problem and the pest problem in general is to prevent the garden from becoming infected. Following certain simple rules will help:
Wear freshly washed clothes or change into a garden outfit when going into the garden.
Never work outdoors, especially in a garden or other vegetative or turf area right before working in your indoor garden.
Pests are frequently carried in on shoes. Do like Mr. Rogers and change your footwear before you enter the garden.
Don’t use outdoor soil, tools or containers in the indoor garden
If a plant is to be introduced to the garden, first do a close examination and then put it in quarantine for five or six days. Examine it closely, especially the underside of leaves, before placing it in the garden.
Close up any unfiltered airways or holes through which plant pests might enter. Make sure that air intake from outside is filtered.
Neem oil is a natural product derived from the seeds of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica). The neem tree is native to tropical and semi-tropical regions of South Asia but also grows in the Middle East and some parts of Africa. Most of the widespread cultivation and use of neem is in India, where it has been used for over two thousand years as a medicinal treatment for a plethora of ailments and disorders. The neem tree is an evergreen, which grows to around 60 ft (18 m) and produces white aromatic flowers followed by a small fruit that looks much like a large olive. Inside the fruit lies the payload; one large seed from which the oil is extracted by either cold pressing or solvent extraction. A by-product of neem oil extraction is a solid dried product called ‘neem cake’, which can be used as an organic fertilizer as well as a good method of controlling soil-dwelling pests. Here we will focus on the properties, uses and advantages of neem oil when used as a natural pest control agent for your homegrown fruits and flowers.
Please note: Neem oil products are not currently registered for use as a pesticide in Canada.
What does neem oil do?
This may sound disappointing, but it needs to be said: neem is not an insecticide that kills on contact, and it has a low instant ‘knock down’ effect. However, it is still very effective! Unlike other chemical insecticides, neem oil gets into an insect’s body after the ingestion of neem coated plant material and gets to work within a few hours. The predominant active component in neem oil is called azadirachtin, and once in a pest’s body it directly affects the hormonal system, more so than the digestive or nervous system. The way in which azadirachtin targets the hormonal system means that insects are far less likely to develop resistance in future generations. As well as azadirachtin, other liminoid compounds present in natural neem oil (nimbin, salanin, gedunin, azadirone, melandriol and more) play a significant collaborative role in deterring feeding and reducing pest populations.
Biological Effects of Neem Oil on Insects
Historical use and recent research studies show that a broad range of phytophagous (plant eating) pest insects are affected and can be controlled by neem oil, these include:
- Orthoptera: grasshoppers, katydids, crickets etc.
- Coleoptera: wide range of beetles/weevils
- Hemiptera: leafhoppers, aphids, psyllids & some scale insects
- Lepidoptera: cutworms, borers & caterpillars
- Thysanoptera: thrips
- Diptera: Sciarid fly, fruit fly, buffalo/blow & march fly
- Heteroptera: sucking bugs – Green veggie bug, spotted fruit bug etc.
- Others: nematodes, snails, and also some fungi and pathogenic viruses
1. Insect Growth Regulation
Neem oil is unique in nature since it works on juvenile hormones. The insect larva feeds and when it grows, it sheds its old skin and continues growing. This molting phenomenon, also know as ecdysis, is predominantly governed by the enzymeecdysone. When the ingested neem, or more specifically azadirachtin, enters into the body of larva, the activity of ecdysone is suppressed. This causes molting failure and results in the larva not developing to the next life stage, and ultimately dying. If only a small amount of neem-coated foliage is ingested, and the concentration of azadirachtin is insufficient to cause molting failure, the larva will manage to enter a short-lived prepupal stage where it will die. In some instances, where the concentration of azadirachtin is still less, the adult emerging from the pupa will be malformed and sterile, without any capacity for reproduction.
2. Feeding Deterrent
One of most important properties of neem oil is feeding deterrence. Most insects are permanently hungry during their larval stages, particularly when they are mobile on the leaf surface. An insect’s maxillary gland is responsible for initiating feeding. When these glands give a signal, peristalsis in the alimentary canal is increased, which makes the larva feel hungry, and makes it start eating. When a leaf is treated with neem oil, the presence of the liminoids azadirachtin, salanin and melandriol produces an anti-peristaltic wave in an insect’s alimentary canal, producing something similar to a vomiting sensation combined with a reduced ability to swallow. Because of this sensation, an insect will avoid feeding on neem-treated leaf surfaces.
3. Oviposition Deterrent
Another way in which neem oil reduces pests is by not allowing the females to deposit eggs. This property is known as oviposition deterrence, and quickly thwarts the pest population growth. Interestingly, studies by Knapp & Kashenge (Insect Sci. Applic.2003) on spider mites, and Singh & Singh (Phytoparasitica, 1998) on fruit flies have shown that natural neem oil formulations are more effective as oviposition deterrents and insect mortality than azadirachtin concentrates alone. Results from Knapp’s & Kashenge’s study showed that azadirachtin does not seem to play a major role in the control of spider mites. Although, azadirachtin is an important component of neem oil, the other less studied ingredients seem to have a positive synergistic effect when it comes to effecting the behavior, effectiveness and mortality of plant pests.
Neem Oil’s Effect on Non-Target Species and Beneficial Insects
One of the problems with the use of chemical pesticides has been their impact on non-target species, particularly when used outdoors. Often they have proved harmful to other beneficial species present in the ecosystem. Neem oil products have proved to be remarkably benign to insects such as adult bees and butterflies that pollinate crops and trees, ladybugs that consume aphids, and wasps that act as parasites on various crop pests. As mentioned above, neem oil has to be ingested to be effective. Those insects that feed on plant tissues, therefore, easily succumb. However natural enemies that feed only on other insects, and bees and butterflies that feed on nectar rarely come in contact with significant concentrations of neem oil to cause themselves harm.
Neem Oil’s Other Benefits as a Foliar Spray
Beside its insecticidal and nematicidal properties, neem oil is also a promising agent for the control of viral and fungal plant diseases. Neem oil in combination with paraffin oil has been shown to greatly reduce disease incidences of the yellow vein mosaic virus of okra and legumes, and leaf curl of chili, all of which can cause enormous losses. Neem oil has also been shown to reduce transmission of the tobacco mosaic virus in greenhouse vegetable crops of pepper, cucumber and tomato.
Neem oil has been demonstrated to suppress fungal activity. Fungi are constantly evolving enemies of growers and some can reach epidemic proportions. Neem oil has been shown to protect seeds against fungal diseases while in storage, and be beneficial as a preventative spray for fungal leaf diseases such as powdery and downy mildew.
Neem oil also contains some key nutrients that make it a good foliar fertilizer. A typical good quality neem oil product found in your local grow store will contain the following plant nutrients:
- Total Nitrogen 1.20% by mass
- Phosphorus as P 0.07% by mass
- Potassium as K 0.01% by mass
- Magnesium as Mg 0.03% by mass
- Copper as Cu 10 ppm
- Magnesium, as Mn 0.40 ppm
- Zinc as Zn 20.00 ppm
- Iron content 14.00 ppm
So, not only will regular spraying of neem oil onto your plant foliage control pests, it will also help prevent diseases and act as a foliage fertilizer! Amazing stuff.
How to Use Natural Cold-Pressed Neem Oil:
Like most of the vegetable oils, natural cold-pressed Neem oil is non-soluble in water and has to be made soluble with suitable emulsifiers before spraying. Some commonly available emulsifiers that can be used are liquid soaps, eco-friendly detergents, surfactants, wetting agents, soap nut powder, and many other organic emulsifiers.
- Collect together your equipment.
- To make 10 liters of spray-able neem, pour 1 liter of water into a container, add 10–15 ml of liquid soap, or a suitable emulsifier, and agitate well until the soap/emulsifiers completely dissolve.
- To this solution add 50 ml of neem oil and agitate well until a pale yellowish white emulsion is formed.
- Add this prepared emulsion to 9 liters of water in a bucket and stir thoroughly. The neem solution is now ready for spraying.
Spraying should be done within 8 hours of mixing, using a suitable sprayer. This solution can be used as a foliar spray on crops, and also can be sprayed on the surface of growing media for effective action against root pests.
It is recommended to repeat the spraying 5 times at intervals of 7 to 10 days. Spraying should be undertaken during periods of low light intensity; outdoors or in greenhouses this should be in the early morning or late in the evening. If you grow under lights, raise them high and consider turning a few off to reduce light intensity before spraying.
- To make 10 liters of drench-able neem. Add 1 liter of water to a container. Add 20–30 ml of liquid soap, or suitable emulsifier, and agitate well until the soap/emulsifiers completely dissolve.
- To this solution add 250–350 ml of neem oil and agitate well until a pale yellowish white emulsion is formed.
- Add this prepared emulsion to 9 liters of water in a bucket and stir thoroughly. The neem solution is now ready to pour onto the growing medium. Apply enough for a small amount of run-off to occur.
Please Note: Drenching potting soil with neem will adversely affect the beneficial biology of the rhizosphere. If you need to drench the root zone with neem, a follow up application with a good quality actively aerated compost tea will help to re-inoculate the beneficial bacteria, fungi and protozoa.
Neem Oil’s Effect on Plants
Neem oil not only coats the plant foliage after spraying, it is actually absorbed into the leaf material and can be transported around the plant systemically. Neem’s liminoid compounds (mainly azadirachtin) can be taken up by the roots after root zone applications, thereby reaching leaf and stem material throughout the whole plant. This reinforces the anti-feeding deterrent properties or neem oil, which makes the whole plant rather unappealing to invading pests.
Due to this persistence in the plant, neem oil products should not be used on plants that are approaching maturity. As a general rule, avoid spraying or soil drenching neem oil on plants that have five weeks left before harvest. As mentioned above, neem products have been used topically and ingested for medicinal use by humans for thousands of years and are completely non-toxic. However, neem has a very bitter taste that can, if used too late in a plant’s life cycle, be passed into the developing consumable produce.
Summary of the Advantages of Neem Oil
- Broad spectrum of activity
- No known insecticide resistance mechanisms
- Compatible with many other insecticides and fungicides
- New mode of action with possible multiple sites of attack
- Low use rates
- Compatible with other biological control agents for Integrated Pest Management programs.
- Not persistent in the environment
- Minimal impact on non-target organisms
- Formulation flexibility
- Application flexibility — can be sprayed or drenched
Things You’ll Need:
- One-gallon spray tank
Pour 1 qt. of water into a one-gallon spray tank. Floramite solution mixes more consistently when water is added first.
Pour one tspn. of Floramite into the water into the spray tank. Pour one quart of water into the spray tank.
Shake the water tank until the Floramite is fully dissolved.
Spray affected areas with the Floramite solution. Spray directly on the plants and underneath the plants leaves. Spider mites chew holes in leaves of plants. If you see a plant with several small circle holes on their leaves or base, spray the area to kill the spider mites.
Let the solution dry for two hours. Wait a few days. Check the areas to see if there are new visible holes in leaves or bases. If there are additional holes, repeat Steps 1 to 4 until all visible holes disappear.
Tips & Warnings
- Do not handle the Floramite with wet hands or wet gloves. Wear protective gloves, goggles, clothing and mask when using Floramite. Wear socks with shoes to prevent mites or the Floramite from contacting your feet.
The Facts–Spider Mites
Spider mites are small eight-legged insects that hail from the arachnid family. They are both cool and warm-weather bugs, depending on their species, but always prefer dry conditions to water. They pierce the leaves and stems of plants with their mouthpieces and suck the juice from the plant.
Spider mites cover plants in web-like formations that hold their eggs and colonies. These are the most obvious indication of a spider mite infestation. Plants with mite damage take on a wilted, unhealthy cast.
Neem oil is an all-natural insecticidal oil that treats specific insects in the garden. Neem oil is known to target specific insects, such as spider mites and aphids, without damaging other animal or beneficial insects like ladybugs.
Neem oil can be useful to kill or control adult spider mites and their larvae or eggs. The oil not only kills the spider mites but also interrupts their reproductions cycle, and is therefore useful in controlling a spider mite population.
Using Neem Oil
Neem oil should be mixed at a rate of 1 to 4 percent with water and sprayed directly on plants. Because the oil needs to physically contact the insects and eggs to kill them, gardeners must coat the plants in a generous amount of neem oil. This substance is commonly used year round to control mites and aphids. Multiple applications will be needed and this can be time consuming but very effective when done properly.
Indoor gardens with dry and warm climates are magnets for spider mite. Whilst utilizing a miticide is the fastest and most effective way to get rid of spider mite, you don’t want a bunch of poison on stuff persons will be consuming. Not to mention harmful to your cannabis or medical marijuana plants.
FIRST - Determine that you have a spider mite infestation.
SECOND, isolate all of the infested plants but preserve them near with each other.
By undertaking this, you’re defending other plants in your garden by generating it much more tough for the spider mites to migrate. Even though they show up to fly from plant to plant, these pests don’t have wings, but are truly beneficial at gliding on air currents. When you preserve your plants shut to each and every other, there is significantly less place for airflow and the plants will keep extra of their moisture. Spider mites choose very low ranges of humidity, so the boost in moisture will right away help to get rid of them.
You can elevate humidity levels in your garden in other tactics to make issues actually uncomfortable for the spider mites. For potted plants, maintain them about a saucer of water. You can also mist the plants with pretty cold h2o a handful of times a day. If your humidity amounts are actually reduced, you can even take into account working with a humidifier in your expand space.
Another way to get rid of your infestation is to use No Spider Mites™ foliar spray. No Spider Mites™ can be used under any light, without gloves or masks from clone through harvest, safely and effectively. An added benefit of No Spider Mites™ is that leaves NO AROMA or AFTERTASTE. The natural plant oils leave a nice sheen and shine on your plant to assist your valuable crops to absorb more light. No Spider Mites™ causes NO BURN on your plants while eradicating your spider mite infestation on contact. The biggest difference is that No Spider Mites™ also kills the eggs. No Spider Mites™ works by penetrating a spider mites breathing passages and suffocating them immediately within 6-15 seconds of initial application and coating the eggs. The organic plant oils in no spider mites then go to work on the eggs membrane while restricting its breathing passages, thus killing the eggs too!. You can use No Spider Mites™ under any lights and with normal lights in the increase area if you’re concerned about messing up your plants’ light cycle. Make positive when you spray your plants to get the undersides of the leaves.
You can also use biological control indicates you’ll be employing predatory mites that won’t damage your plants but will feed on the spider mites as a secondary measure, but keep in mind No Spider Mites™ will not be able to tell the difference!
Stop by a good hydroponic retailer and ask for No Spider Mites™ as this stuff is seriously wicked great! No Spider Mites™ will actually eliminate all of the spider mites in your garden with only two applications done properly. This is a very good point for you as you won’t have anything at all to clear up.
If you detect a good webbing among your cannabis- marijuana leaves you may possibly have spider mites. Do not waste time, order some No Spider Mites™ and clear your spider mite infestation for good. We have found that No Spider Mites™ is also a great preventive when used at the beginning of a plants life cycle. Learn why No Spider Mites™ is one of the fastest growing spider mite eliminators on the market today! Master Grower and dispensary owner trusted.
I have tried a few different spider mite elimination concoctions including but not limited to Neem oil, dish washing detergent, bug bombs and No Spider Mites™. The neem oil had a bad smell and I did not feel safe using it while flowering, and let’s face it, during flowering is when the little bastages come out in full force. I also don’t like the idea of spraying store bought dish washing detergent full of who knows what.
Then I found a product called No Spider Mites™ That worked extremely well, and now MADE in DENVER COLORADO .
There are three steps that have helped me keep the spider mite situation under control. Cheap homemade version Below!
Step 1 – Spray daily with a mister bottle full of sodium free seltzer water. I get mine from the wine and mixer area of Albertsons for 99 cents per 2 liter bottle. Not only is the CO2 good for the plants, but the mist will reveal any hidden spider webs that are normally hard to see. Kind of like blowing smoke through a laser beam
Step 2 – At first sign of spider mite infestation:
Add 3 ml Canola Oil, 2-3 drops of Simplicity hypoallergenic / non-toxic liquid dish soap to 1 Qt. seltzer water. I pour the water in the spray bottle last to help mix the ingredients without having to shake the bottle.
Spray plants generously, paying special attention to the underside of the fan leaves. Repeat in 24 hours.
Step 3 – Clean dead leaves from the growing medium. As the leaves turn brown and fall to the base of the plant, you can see small dots where the spiders have laid their eggs.
Now continue with spaying with pure seltzer water daily. All of these ingredients are safe and non-toxic. All of these ingredients are readily available. All of these ingredients are affordable.
Canola Oil available from any market for a couple of bucks.
Simplicity hypoallergenic / non-toxic liquid dish soap was obtained from Walmart for a couple more bucks.
Cheap, Safe, Readily available… What more could a gardener ask for?
Well I could have asked for more No Spider Mites™! visit us at www.NoSpiderMites.com
No Spider Mites™!
Using Azadrachtin, [not going to say which brand] I had a very disappointing crop because of an invasion of Spidermites, the first time in years!
Having used Neem oil products for years with complete control heard of the Azadrachtin and decided to use it before I switched into bloom.
Believed after its use that there were no more mites, WRONG! Could not see any mites anywhere, with past results being great with Neem and less applications, figured there were no more mites.
At 2 weeks from finish found a small pocket under a branch that even with air conditioner on maximum ate their way through 20% of my crop!
There is nothing that can be done at that time, cannot spray anything except cold water, or so I thought. Organic growing is a commitment to Health, being at the root of the Health Foods community. Because of the high value of these flowers there has been added to the arsenal of the Underground Growers, AVID, a type of Mite killer used on flowers for the Floral trade that is not to be used on vegetables, or anything destined for Human Consumption, Very Deadly to Patients!
According to Dr. Todd Mikurya, AVID caused the death of a Patient that had a compromised Immune System. She had been trimming a batch of Cannabis that had been treated with AVID During the final weeks of bloom cycle.
This Insecticide and the many other equally Toxic insecticides are used to stop Satan’s Minions, [Spider-Mites], from destroying their crop. Many unscrupulous Growers, who care only about money and not the health of those who consume their herb, are now routinely using this Insecticide.
Because of the devoted staff of the Research and Development Team at Greenway University, there is a new Non-Toxic Mite Killer called “No Spider Mites™”! Using Organic Oils and Botanicals they have developed the best new Product I have tried in the past 30 Years!
This Really works! This Product Really ends the Merry Go-Round of “Control” we have been forced to endure to keep our crops free of this truly devastating pest.
I will use the example of my own last crop, the poor performance of Azadrachtin in the last crop before I went into bud had the mites re-appear in the final 2 weeks of bud, causing a 20% loss of my crop.
This had never occurred before using Neem to control them well enough to be able to keep them out of my bud room long enough to not need to spray at all during the Bud cycle.
This failure of the product to truly control them also left them in my Bud room, my nursery, all while I was traveling for a week in California, these pests got a lot worse while I was gone.
My Bottle of No Spider Mites™ arrived while I was in California; my caregiver sprayed both spaces twice while I was gone. I Sprayed once more to just make sure the floors and walls were all covered in both spaces. Using about a gallon on an 8’ x 12’ space, as well as the nursery which is 2’ x 4’ and the room it is in, covered it completely. My My Caregiver used much more than was necessary, he should have used no more than a half a gallon.
After transplanting all of the cuttings into the Bud Room, I noticed they all had very shiny leaf surfaces and over all looked like really healthy plants. Leaves healing from previous mite bites are particularly inspiring to any gardener!
Loss of Vigor is one of the most noticed effects on Cannabis Plants when sprayed with all the various miticides, with “No Spider Mites™”, there is a renewed Vigor that makes me impressed even more with this product; and it even smells good!
It has been about a week since I sprayed this product last and my plants are noticeably improved, there are No Spider Mites™!!!!
There were 3 applications applied in total, one on the 20th, another on the 23rd, last one on the 27th of April, with Amazing results.
What is most impressive is that the Eggs are killed, which has always been the hardest to eliminate in the life cycle of these pests.
I Have never been this Impressed with any product more than with this “No Spider Mites™” in the last 30 Years!!!!!